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    May 16

    黔东南,别样风景(2)——朗德,西江(苗寨)

         离开小七孔,在一个小镇解决了午餐,继续旅程。转了两躺车,共花了5个多小时才来到黔东南洲首府凯里。晚上狠狠地刷了一顿,以安慰下午的赶路。
         第二天(4月30号)来到朗德上寨。在一当地苗族人家吃了午饭,因为当地生活水准的问题,这顿午饭非常简单但又很家常。饭后女主人家要去参加表演。这里的几乎每家每户的女性都有参与表演。我们早早地霸了位(每人收15元看表演的费用),静静地等待表演的开始。在一个外国旅游团来了后表演开始。表演场地虽然简单,但苗族女性的打扮非常耀眼。白得耀眼的精致的银饰装饰着她们的身体以及衣服的衣角等细节;铃铛随着苗家女性的轻盈的脚步而发出响亮的声音,回荡在宁静祥和的村寨以及我的脑海里;她们穿着自己缝制的衣服,颜色鲜艳,衣服上精美的刺绣让人惊叹。能歌善舞的民族不费吹灰之力就上演了一场非常精彩的真正的原生态的演出,不希望几年后的这里会出现所谓“印象朗德”“印象苗族”之类的节目。
         依依不舍地离开朗德,前往下一站:有千户苗寨之称的西江。千户的规模之大令人咋舌,密密麻麻的苗族木房遍布连绵的两个山头。在一个可眺望西江全景的拐弯处静静地欣赏了西江的日落和日出。日落时的西江,阳光如橙色粉末般洒在木房子上,温婉可人;日出时的西江,害羞的太阳躲在大山后,偷跑出来的鱼肚白的光线如白纱般笼罩着西江,点缀着早晨的炊烟缈缈,此时的西江如同仙境一般如幻似真。
         在早上温暖的阳光下闲逛西江。我们穿插在木房中,沿石路往上走,当地苗族大人和小孩瞥了我们几个外乡人几眼后继续他们的生活步伐,总觉得打扰了他们清净的生活,真的不好意思。
         中午,离开西江。

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